Friday 3 October 2008

Seam Finishing

It has come to my attention that I have no idea how I'm going to finish the seams on the trousers. The blouse? Easy -- I'm overcasting the seams by hand. Not as onerous as it sounds, because I'm stitching both allowances together, rather than overcasting them separately. My fabric is quite lightweight, so that seemed like the appropriate thing to do.

I favour overcasting by hand because it adds very little bulk, and I rather enjoy handsewing, although it does make the process of constructing a garment much slower.

The trousers, on the other hand, I haven't yet decided. Overcasting doesn't seem right, either by hand or by machine. I don't want flat-felled seams on these pants. So what to choose?

I think I'm probably going to go for a Hong Kong finish. This is when a bias-strip of fabric is used to bind the seam allowances. It's a higher end finish that I've been wanting to try for a while, and it gives me the opportunity to try cutting a continuous bias strip from a length of fabric --another new technique for me, and I think it'll add a nice detail to the trousers. Even if it is a detail only I know about.

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