Waisting Time

The pieces for the trousers and blouse have ben cut out. Now there's just some fusing and marking to do andthen I should be ready to sew. The good news? I think I love the wool I'm using for the trousers. It feels lovely, definitely worth the money I paid for it, and I'm pretty sure I'm going to get some more to make some trousers for Paul. The even better news? I even have enough left over for a waistcoat.

When I realised that, I dropped everything (I was cutting out the trousers at the time) and ran to my collection of Burda WOFs to see what choice of waistcoats (vests to the Americans) they had.

The current front runners are from left to right:

-- #1) 09/2006 - 128

-- #2) 04/2007 - 115

-- #3) 02/2008 - 116

I'm flipflopping back and forth over which one I want to make. I kind of think #1 iz the sharpest, but I'm also drawn to the others. I don't have enough fabric for the flounces on 3. so I'd have to adapt it to be totally sleeveless -- probably not too hard, since I'll probably be lining it anyway, but still... Right at this moment I'm leaning towards #2. Actually no, wait... 1.

*sigh*. perhaps I should ask myself how I envisage wearing it -- as a top in it's own right, (like #3) or over a shirt, (a la #1), and it's the latter. But that hasn't got fancy pockets! However, I could always add pockets to it, which could be an interesting challenge.

Right, I'm going to take a closer look at the magazine, but right now it looks like I'm going to go with #1 with added welt pockets. Sorted. For the moment.

Next Up: Black is the New Black

Yes, no longer will I be sewing grey fabric, stylish and dull and work appropriate though it is. My next two projects will be black.

This is my first go at sewing a full outfit. Whether the two actually go together remains to be seen. However, I do need a black blouse in my wardrobe.

The blouse is BWOF 05/2006 124, a blouse with gathered section seams. I'll be using a black polyester from my favourite local fabric shop.

The trousers are BWOF 08/2008 105, Marlene Dietrich men'style trousers, with wide legs and a welt pocket in the back. They also have turn-ups but I'm going to leave those off for a smarter look. I'll be using a wool from the same fabric shop as as above.

Wow, I'm really going to have to sew something colourful soon. I'm off to do some tracing.

Finished Object - BWOF 10/07 105 -- No Mouse Dress

My quest for perfect photos continues. Paul took this one, but Arsenal were playing and he didn't quite have his mind on the job. Also, I appear to be turning into a flamingo. What the hell happened to my other leg?

My Review

Pattern Description: From the Burda website:
'No little grey mouse here! Clever details turn this dress into an eyecatcher! It sports a trendy empire waist seam, a skirt with unpressed pleats, a self-fabric belt and seam pockets accentuated by button-down tabs.'

Pattern Sizing:The usual Burda sizes, 36-44. I made a 40, which is the size I normally make. It is, as other reviewers have noted, very close fitting, especially in the bust.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, very similar. My pleats don't seem to be showing too well, but they look lovelier in person, honest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't take too much notice of them, but yes -- I didn't come across any problems with them. I used the same construction method I'd use with any dress like this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pleats! They give the skirt a lovely swingy shape. As for dislikes, I don't really have any. One thing I will mention is the pleats in the back accentuate the burves of the bottom -- e.g. they made it look bigger. This isn't something I have an issue with. I like my curves and as long as they're kept in proportion and my waist is defined I'm all for clothes that make them look curvier. Other people may not feel the same way.

It is very close fitting, definitely designed for a stretch woven. It is a little tight on me, something which is more evident in the back, but it's not so tight that it's unwearable, and it's fine over my breasts. I'm very happy with how the dress looks in the front. It's pulling a little in the back and at the arms, but not too badly (standing with hands on my hips doesn't help).

In all, I'm happy with the amount of ease, but I think I probably hit on a fabric with the perfect amount of stretch.

I finished the seams with hand overcasting, my favourite method of finishing when I'm feeling a tad masochistic. Makes the process slower, but I enjoy hand sewing and find it very relaxing.

I self-lined the bodice only, not the skirt. The fabric has enough weight not to need lining.

I also used vilene bias tape (what Burda used to confusingly call 'fuse and fold) to stabilise the neck and armholes and I love it. This stuff makes stabilising curves so much quicker and easier. It's a strip of interfacing cut on the bias with a chain (?) stitch along one edge.

Fabric Used: A stretch woven from the sadly missed Croft Mill. I can't quite remember what it was, but I have a feeling it was mostly cotton. Whatever it was, I llove it and wish I'd bought more. I bought it specifically for this pattern, and honestly I don't think I could have made a better choice. They were perfect for each other.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. Well, I left off the pocket tabs, but that doesn't really count. The dress has a cleaner look without them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I would definitely recommend it, however I would definitely suggest using a stretch woven. As for making it again, I probably won't because... really, how many dresses do I need, and there's plenty more patterns that I'd like to try.

However, one thing I am contemplating is leaving off the bodice part and turning it into a high-waisted skirt. The one issue would be figuring how to line/face it, but I think it would look beautiful with the right rabric.

Conclusion: Interestingly, Burda have made this into one of their regular patterns, 7759. At least, it looks very similar indeed. The fabric recommendations are 'Poplin, crepe fabric, flannel, tweed', nothing in there about stretch, that I can see, so perhaps it's sized differently.

If you do find the perfect fabric, then do consider this. It's a simple classic pattern, which is smart and work-appropriate, with a flattering shape. It's also not too low cut, which is rare for Burda. Although, admittedly, my definition of low-cut may not be the same as yours.

Catching Up

Well, John Lewis was an almost total waste of time. I was hoping they might have some decent jerseys but they had next to nothing. And what they did have I wasn't too thrilled with. So far Fabrics Galore is the best I've seen for jersey.

I went into Macculloch and Wallis, and manahed to pick up a couple of things I needed. It's a little too chaotic in that shop though. I've always preferred to find things for myself rather than asking the assistants for everything.... But that's what they're there for.

I'm working on the No Mouse dress today -- managed to set in the sleeves quite nicely, and I've decided to leave off the sleeve tabs as I think I'll like it better without them. So that's one less task to do.

Now I'm going to stick a sewing podcast on and with any luck I'll be able to get it finished.

And then I can start something else. And it won't be grey!

(It'll be black. *Sigh*)

On the subject of zips...

I've been googling for ways of improving the top of my invisible zips -- most tutorials only seem to cover the actual insertion. While that's certainly something I could probably improve, that's all down to accuracy rather than not knowing now to insert them.

The details on finishing the zip of the zip and attaching a facing are usually pretty vague.

I have just found an interesting tip here on www.isew.co.uk. Scroll down to tip number 9. It suggests using a longer zip and intersting it with the tab above the seam for the waistband. In other words you sew underneath the little plastic tab. Makes sense to me, and I'll try that next time.

I'd also like to branch out into other types of zip, because it seems like the only zips I sew are invisible and fly zips. Actually, what do I mean 'seems'? They ARE the only ones I sew.

BWOF 10/07 105 - Grey Dress - Progress

Success!

I managed to fix the facing last night. The invisible zip doesn't look perfect, but it's better than it was, and it's enough for me. I also got the facing stitched down, and basted the armscyes of the facing and outer shell together, ready for the sleeve insertion. Go me.

Next up: the sleeves. Ideally, I'd like to get them hemmed and inserted tonight. Then there's just the belt, the pocket tabs and self-covered buttons and the hem. Don't think I've forgetten anything.

I'm really excited about this one. I've tried it on and I think it's going to be a lovely dress. Even if it is another grey garment.

I think I might be venturing to Oxford Street tonight -- John Lewis and Macculloch and Wallis. Unwise? Almost certainly. But I need to unwind after a chaotic week. I have a coupld of items in mind, a retro blouse, a long jaquard skirt and a jersey dress. All, naturally, from Burda World of Fashion. I also need a buckle for the grey dress and a strip of leather for Paul's coat, so there is actual need here.

Honest.

10/07 - 105 -- Progress

Frustratingly, I've stalled on this. The last think I did was attach the facing, and unfortunately the top of the invisible zipper looks like crap. Ugh.

I sewed the facing to the edge first rather than the top -- call it an experiemnt -- and I'm now kicking myself. Tonight the plan it to rip the stitches attaching the edge to the facing and do it the old-fashioned way -- hand-stitching the fazing to the zip. Hopefully this shouldn't be too much of an issue, although I've already done some trimming so it might be a little tight.

I like invisible zipsm but I find finishe=ing the top of them rather tricky at times. Sometimes it seems more luck than judgement. Maybe I just need to sit down and work my way through a bunch of samples -- great idea, except that I always have something (usually several somethings) on the go, and it seems like my time would be better spent on those.

Anyway, my task for tonight (and I do want to get it finished tonight) is to fix and finish the Facingm including pressing and understitching. If I have time to slipstitch it to the waist seam, so much the better, but I'm not going to push myself on that. It's the facing I want to get finished.

Newport News

I have Melody of Crazed Sewer to thank for this fascinating wardrobing link. It was 'Neiman Marcus Taste, Newport News Budget' that drew my attention.

It's all about Newport News.It's a clothing catalogue based in the US. (No affiliations here btw -- I haven't shopped there and I try to avoid ordering items from abroad so it's unlikely that I ever will.)

Their catalogue and online site has a feature called '10 Items, 10 Ways', in which they spotlight ten garments they sell and ten outfits put together using those garments. I LOVE this sort of thing as inspiration for SWAP, seeing the way outfits are put together with a certain number of basics. It's the sort of thing I buy magazines for, only they never really fulfil my expectations. These are especially good as they're work-appropriate.

So inspiring. Now all I need is fabric.

Whoops

I went and accidentally ordered some snaps from www.planetfleece.co.uk. I've been hunting for snaps that are easy to set for a while, and I wanted to try this one out. They've got a wide selection of fleecy fabrics, but not a great deal more than that. A lot of children's fabric too. Not really what I want. I do find myself wondering what 'flurr' is like though. I guess a furry fleece.

I'm going to be sewing tonight. Getting a bit twitchy as I want to be sewig now. I'm also toying with the idea of popping to my local fabric shop tomorrow to pick up some interlining for Paul's coat. I haven't even finished the muslin yet! Probably next week.

All Quiet on the Blogging Front

Perhaps it's just me, but the sewing blogland has seemed rather quiet of late. Is no one blogging, or is everyone far too busy sewing?

I know I have been. I've also been dragging my lazy carcass back to the gym. I'm off there after work today, in fact. It's just a matter of trying to build the habit, although I know I should be going back to the classes. If I book in for one then I have to go.

I spent most of yesterday evening listening to sewing podcasts and cutting out the dress from BWOF 10/07 -- 105. I cut a little extra in the outer bodice (no room for it in the lining), but it seems like there's a lot of stretch to my fabric. Maybe that's wishful thinking though. It was a bit of a squeeze, as my fabric was narrower than I'd realised, but I got everything cut out in the end. After the gym I'm going to do any necessary interfacing, and then hopefully it should be ready to sew.

The fabric itself I think I love. It was from Croft Mill (sadly missed, at least in my household), and I can't remember what it was. It has a lovely feel to it (so much nicer than the fabric I'm using for the jacket muslin), and I think it should make up into a lovely dress.