Saturday 27 September 2008

Finished Object - BWOF 10/07 105 -- No Mouse Dress



My quest for perfect photos continues. Paul took this one, but Arsenal were playing and he didn't quite have his mind on the job. Also, I appear to be turning into a flamingo. What the hell happened to my other leg?

My Review

Pattern Description: From the Burda website:
'No little grey mouse here! Clever details turn this dress into an eyecatcher! It sports a trendy empire waist seam, a skirt with unpressed pleats, a self-fabric belt and seam pockets accentuated by button-down tabs.'

Pattern Sizing:The usual Burda sizes, 36-44. I made a 40, which is the size I normally make. It is, as other reviewers have noted, very close fitting, especially in the bust.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, very similar. My pleats don't seem to be showing too well, but they look lovelier in person, honest.

Were the instructions easy to follow? I didn't take too much notice of them, but yes -- I didn't come across any problems with them. I used the same construction method I'd use with any dress like this.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? The pleats! They give the skirt a lovely swingy shape. As for dislikes, I don't really have any. One thing I will mention is the pleats in the back accentuate the burves of the bottom -- e.g. they made it look bigger. This isn't something I have an issue with. I like my curves and as long as they're kept in proportion and my waist is defined I'm all for clothes that make them look curvier. Other people may not feel the same way.

It is very close fitting, definitely designed for a stretch woven. It is a little tight on me, something which is more evident in the back, but it's not so tight that it's unwearable, and it's fine over my breasts. I'm very happy with how the dress looks in the front. It's pulling a little in the back and at the arms, but not too badly (standing with hands on my hips doesn't help).

In all, I'm happy with the amount of ease, but I think I probably hit on a fabric with the perfect amount of stretch.

I finished the seams with hand overcasting, my favourite method of finishing when I'm feeling a tad masochistic. Makes the process slower, but I enjoy hand sewing and find it very relaxing.

I self-lined the bodice only, not the skirt. The fabric has enough weight not to need lining.

I also used vilene bias tape (what Burda used to confusingly call 'fuse and fold) to stabilise the neck and armholes and I love it. This stuff makes stabilising curves so much quicker and easier. It's a strip of interfacing cut on the bias with a chain (?) stitch along one edge.

Fabric Used: A stretch woven from the sadly missed Croft Mill. I can't quite remember what it was, but I have a feeling it was mostly cotton. Whatever it was, I llove it and wish I'd bought more. I bought it specifically for this pattern, and honestly I don't think I could have made a better choice. They were perfect for each other.

Pattern Alterations or any design changes you made: None. Well, I left off the pocket tabs, but that doesn't really count. The dress has a cleaner look without them.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I would definitely recommend it, however I would definitely suggest using a stretch woven. As for making it again, I probably won't because... really, how many dresses do I need, and there's plenty more patterns that I'd like to try.

However, one thing I am contemplating is leaving off the bodice part and turning it into a high-waisted skirt. The one issue would be figuring how to line/face it, but I think it would look beautiful with the right rabric.

Conclusion: Interestingly, Burda have made this into one of their regular patterns, 7759. At least, it looks very similar indeed. The fabric recommendations are 'Poplin, crepe fabric, flannel, tweed', nothing in there about stretch, that I can see, so perhaps it's sized differently.

If you do find the perfect fabric, then do consider this. It's a simple classic pattern, which is smart and work-appropriate, with a flattering shape. It's also not too low cut, which is rare for Burda. Although, admittedly, my definition of low-cut may not be the same as yours.

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